By: Anne Ewbank
I came to Kinmen with one large suitcase, not big enough for a years' worth of clothing, but I needed one hand free for my guitar. It had been a last minute decision: I asked friends on Facebook if I should bring it. Amidst all the goodbyes, and smiley-faces, and the shocked comments of people who hadn't realized I was leaving to live across the world for a year in the first place, the general reply was "yes." I knew little about Kinmen, so I thought, if I found myself bored, at least I had an instrument to practice that I had been trying to learn for years.
I am never bored on Kinmen. Work keeps me very busy, and I spend free time exploring the island and planning my future. However, whenever things get too difficult or I feel homesick, I pick up my guitar and feel better for a while. I am creating something temporary but beautiful, just for myself.
One thing that intrigued all the Fulbright teachers in August was the idea of "school specialties," where the schools focus on a particular extracurricular activity. On Kinmen, there is the unicycle school, the jump-rope school, the baton-twirling school, and my school, the guzheng school. I liked Jinsha Elementary quite a bit when I first saw it, and I was lucky to be placed there. I also started to play the guzheng.
In a music room in the activity center, I saw my first guzheng. A combination of piano, guitar, and coffee table, it's an intimidating instrument to learn. But the music teacher welcomed me to attend the classes, so I started going to Monday and Tuesday practices with the 5th and 6th graders. It is actually very similar to the guitar, especially the notation system.
I've become a little obsessed. The guzheng has a beautiful sound, different from anything I've ever heard, almost otherworldly. The Chinese first developed the instrument almost 2,000 years ago, and it has been extremely popular throughout Chinese history. Much like Chinese language and culture, many neighboring countries have their own version of the instrument.
Playing the guzheng gives me the same transcendent feeling as learning Chinese. In a way, it's a portal to the past, as an instrument with a history longer than most civilizations. Though the most ancient guzheng songs are lost to history, the instrument has many famous old songs like "High Mountain, Flowing Water," "Turning into Butterflies," and "Autumn Moon over the Han Palace." At the same time, many modern songs use the guzheng as well. Jay Chou's "Chrysanthemum Banquet," Phoenix Legend's "Moon over the Lotus Pond," and the Gorillaz song "Hong Kong" all use the instrument to great effect.
Learning the guzheng has given me many moments of great joy, as I learn about my students who play it as well as the instrument's long past. While used in the most modern of music, the instrument gives the player and the listener a connection to an ancient tradition. I feel like playing the guzheng is a cultural experience that few are lucky enough to experience during their time abroad. Taping the picks to my right hand and copying my teacher's elegant movements, I am able to play music that has been listened to for many years before my birth and that will resonate long after I am gone, from both Kinmen and the world.

『本專刊由<金門日報>編輯部與學術交流基金會(傅爾布萊特交換計畫/Fulbright Taiwan)共同策畫製作』